Choosing the right developer volume is crucial for achieving your desired hair color results. Whether you’re aiming for a subtle change or a dramatic transformation, understanding the differences between 10 and 20 volume developers is essential. This guide delves into the nuances of each, helping you make an informed decision for your hair.
Understanding Developer Volume
Developer, also known as peroxide, is a crucial component in the hair coloring process. It works by opening the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate and deposit color. The volume number indicates the strength of the developer, reflecting its oxygen content. This oxygen content directly impacts the lifting power and the amount of color deposit.
What is 10 Volume Developer?
10 volume developer contains 3% hydrogen peroxide. It’s the gentlest option, primarily used for depositing color or achieving minimal lift. This means it mainly adds color to the hair without significantly lightening its existing shade. It’s often favored when working with semi-permanent or demi-permanent colors, where the goal is to enhance or deepen the existing tone.
What is 20 Volume Developer?
20 volume developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. It provides a balance between lifting and depositing color. It’s capable of lifting the hair by one to two levels, making it a versatile choice for permanent hair color, gray coverage, and subtle lightening.
Factors to Consider When Choosing Developer Volume
Several factors influence the ideal developer volume for your hair. Assessing these aspects will ensure you achieve the desired outcome while minimizing potential damage.
Hair Type and Condition
Your hair’s texture, porosity, and overall health play a significant role. Fine, damaged, or porous hair tends to process color faster and is more susceptible to damage. Using a lower volume developer like 10 volume is generally recommended for these hair types to minimize breakage and dryness. Coarse, healthy hair may require a higher volume developer like 20 volume to achieve sufficient lift and color penetration.
Desired Color Result
The extent of color change you’re aiming for is a crucial consideration. If you’re simply looking to deposit color, tone bleached hair, or cover a few grays without lightening your base color, 10 volume is often sufficient. However, if you want to lighten your hair, achieve significant gray coverage, or make a noticeable color change, 20 volume might be necessary.
Natural Hair Color and Underlying Pigment
Your natural hair color and any underlying pigments (like red or orange) will influence the developer volume needed. Darker hair typically requires a higher volume developer to lift through these underlying pigments and achieve the desired lightness. If you’re trying to lighten dark brown hair to a light blonde, you’ll likely need a developer stronger than 20 volume. However, for subtle changes or toning, 10 or 20 volume may suffice, depending on the starting level and desired end result.
The Specific Hair Color Product
The instructions provided by the hair color manufacturer are essential. Different hair color brands and types (permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanent) are formulated to work optimally with specific developer volumes. Always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines to avoid unexpected results or damage. Some products may be designed to work exclusively with a 10 volume developer, while others require a 20 volume or higher for optimal performance.
10 Volume Developer: When to Use It
10 volume developer is your go-to option for situations where minimal lift is required, prioritizing color deposit and hair health.
Toning Bleached Hair
After bleaching, hair often has unwanted yellow or orange tones. 10 volume developer mixed with a toner is ideal for neutralizing these tones and achieving the desired shade of blonde, silver, or pastel. It gently deposits the toner without further lifting the hair, minimizing damage.
Refreshing Color
If your hair color has faded and you simply want to revive it, 10 volume can be used to refresh the color without altering your base shade. It adds vibrancy and shine without significantly lifting the hair.
Color Glazes and Glosses
Color glazes and glosses are designed to enhance shine and add subtle color tones to the hair. 10 volume developer is the perfect choice for these applications, as it deposits color gently without lifting the natural pigment.
Blending Away Minimal Gray
For individuals with only a few scattered gray hairs, 10 volume developer can be used with a demi-permanent color to blend away the gray without creating a harsh line of demarcation as the hair grows out. It provides a softer, more natural-looking blend.
Deposit-Only Color
If you want to change your hair color to a darker shade without lightening it, 10 volume developer is the ideal choice. It allows the color to deposit evenly without altering your existing base color. This is common when going from blonde to brown or adding rich, dark tones to already dark hair.
20 Volume Developer: When to Use It
20 volume developer offers more versatility, providing a balance between lifting and depositing color, making it suitable for a wider range of applications.
Gray Coverage
20 volume developer is generally recommended for achieving optimal gray coverage with permanent hair color. It lifts the cuticle sufficiently to allow the color molecules to fully penetrate and adhere to the gray hair, providing long-lasting coverage. For resistant gray hair, a longer processing time might be needed.
Lightening by One to Two Levels
If you want to lighten your hair by one or two levels, 20 volume developer is a good option. This can be used to achieve a subtle highlight, lighten your overall hair color, or create a brighter base for further coloring.
Permanent Hair Color
20 volume developer is commonly used with permanent hair color to achieve a lasting color change. It provides the necessary lift to deposit the new color and ensure it bonds effectively to the hair shaft.
Root Touch-Ups
When touching up roots, 20 volume developer can be used to match the color of the new growth to the rest of your hair. It provides the lift needed to blend the roots seamlessly with the previously colored hair.
Potential Risks and Precautions
While both 10 and 20 volume developers are relatively mild, it’s essential to be aware of the potential risks and take necessary precautions to protect your hair.
Hair Damage
Any chemical process, including hair coloring, can potentially cause damage. Using a developer that is too strong for your hair type or processing it for too long can lead to dryness, breakage, and split ends. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and perform a strand test before applying the color to your entire head.
Scalp Irritation
Developer can sometimes cause scalp irritation, especially in individuals with sensitive skin. If you experience burning, itching, or redness, rinse the product immediately and discontinue use. Consider using a scalp protectant or barrier cream before applying the color.
Allergic Reactions
Although rare, allergic reactions to hair dye and developer can occur. Always perform a patch test 48 hours before coloring your hair to check for any adverse reactions. Apply a small amount of the mixed color to a discreet area of skin, such as behind the ear or on the inner arm, and monitor for any signs of irritation.
Over-Processing
Over-processing occurs when the hair is exposed to chemicals for too long, resulting in excessive damage and breakage. This can happen if the developer volume is too high or if the processing time exceeds the recommended guidelines. Closely monitor the hair during processing and rinse immediately if you notice any signs of damage.
Tips for Healthy Hair Coloring
To minimize the risk of damage and achieve optimal results, consider these tips for healthy hair coloring:
Perform a Strand Test
A strand test is a crucial step that allows you to assess how your hair will react to the color and developer. Apply the mixture to a small, hidden section of hair and monitor the processing time. This will help you determine the correct developer volume, processing time, and overall outcome before applying the color to your entire head.
Use a Deep Conditioner
After coloring your hair, use a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and restore the hair’s natural elasticity. Look for products that contain hydrating ingredients like shea butter, argan oil, or keratin.
Avoid Overlapping
When touching up roots, avoid overlapping the color onto previously colored hair. This can lead to over-processing and uneven color results. Apply the color only to the new growth.
Protect Your Hair from Heat
Heat styling can further damage colored hair. Minimize the use of heat tools like flat irons and curling irons, and always use a heat protectant spray before styling.
Wait Between Coloring Sessions
Allow your hair sufficient time to recover between coloring sessions. Frequent coloring can weaken the hair and lead to damage. Waiting at least 4-6 weeks between colorings is generally recommended.
Consult a Professional
If you’re unsure about which developer volume to use or if you’re attempting a significant color change, consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair type, color history, and desired outcome to recommend the best approach and minimize the risk of damage.
Making the Right Choice
Choosing between 10 and 20 volume developer depends on your individual hair type, desired color result, and the specific hair color product you’re using. 10 volume is ideal for gentle color deposit and minimal lift, while 20 volume offers a balance between lifting and depositing color. By carefully considering these factors and taking necessary precautions, you can achieve beautiful, healthy-looking colored hair.
What’s the main difference between 10 and 20 volume developer?
The primary difference lies in the lifting power and the level of color change they achieve. 10 volume developer deposits more color and provides minimal lift, making it ideal for depositing color, toning pre-lightened hair, or refreshing existing color without significant alteration. It opens the hair cuticle slightly, allowing the dye to penetrate and deposit color effectively, resulting in less damage compared to higher volume developers.
20 volume developer, on the other hand, provides a noticeable level of lift, typically one to two levels. This makes it suitable for covering gray hair, achieving a subtle color change, or working with fine, delicate hair where a gentler lift is desired. It opens the cuticle more aggressively than 10 volume, enabling the dye to both deposit color and lighten the existing hair pigment.
When should I choose 10 volume developer?
You should opt for 10 volume developer when you want to deposit color without significantly lifting your natural hair color. This is perfect for situations where you’re toning pre-lightened hair, refreshing a faded color, or simply adding depth and richness to your existing shade. It’s also a good choice if you want to minimize damage to your hair, as it’s gentler than higher volume developers.
Another great use case for 10 volume is depositing a darker shade over pre-lightened hair. Because your hair is already lightened, you don’t need the extra lifting power of 20 volume. Using 10 volume ensures the color adheres well and minimizes potential damage from over-processing. It’s also ideal for color glazes and glosses, which aim to enhance shine and tone rather than dramatically change the hair color.
When is 20 volume developer the better choice?
20 volume developer is the preferred choice when you need to achieve a slight lift in your hair color, typically one to two levels. This is often required when covering gray hair effectively or when you want to lighten your natural shade slightly without a dramatic transformation. It’s also a good option for those with fine or delicate hair who want to lighten their color but are concerned about potential damage from stronger developers.
Furthermore, 20 volume is generally recommended when you’re using permanent hair color and want to ensure proper color saturation and longevity. While it provides less lift than higher volume developers, it still opens the hair cuticle sufficiently to allow the color molecules to penetrate deeply and bind effectively. This results in a more vibrant and lasting color result, especially for covering stubborn grays.
Can I use 10 volume developer to cover gray hair?
While 10 volume developer can deposit color and help blend gray hairs, it’s generally not the best choice for complete and long-lasting gray coverage, especially if you have a significant amount of gray. It might work well if you only have a few scattered gray hairs or if you’re using a very pigmented color, but the coverage will likely be less effective than with a higher volume developer.
For optimal gray coverage, 20 volume developer is typically recommended. It provides the necessary lift to open the hair cuticle adequately, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate and adhere to the gray hairs, resulting in a more complete and durable color result. 10 volume may be suitable as a root smudge to blend grays between color appointments but is not a long-term solution for comprehensive gray coverage.
Will using 20 volume developer always lighten my hair?
Yes, 20 volume developer will lighten your hair to some degree. It’s formulated to lift the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to deposit color while also lightening the existing pigment. The amount of lift achieved typically ranges from one to two levels, depending on your natural hair color, the dye used, and the processing time.
However, it’s important to note that the lightening effect might be subtle, especially if your natural hair color is already quite light or if you’re using a darker hair dye. The developer’s primary function is to facilitate the color deposit, and the lightening is a secondary effect. If you’re aiming for significant lightening, you would need a higher volume developer.
Is it safe to use 20 volume developer on damaged hair?
Using 20 volume developer on damaged hair can be risky and potentially cause further damage. Damaged hair is often more porous and fragile, making it more susceptible to breakage and dryness. The lifting action of 20 volume developer can exacerbate these issues, leading to increased damage.
If you have damaged hair, it’s best to consult with a professional stylist before using any developer. They can assess the condition of your hair and recommend the most suitable developer and application technique. If you must use developer on damaged hair, opt for 10 volume and a protein-rich conditioner to help strengthen and protect your hair during the process. Consider strand testing as well.
Can I mix 10 and 20 volume developer together?
While theoretically possible, mixing 10 and 20 volume developer is generally not recommended unless you have a thorough understanding of hair chemistry and color formulations. Mixing them will create a developer with an approximate volume somewhere between 10 and 20, but the exact lift and deposit properties might be unpredictable.
The effectiveness of the mixed developer can vary depending on the specific formulas of the developers you’re using. It’s difficult to precisely control the outcome, which could lead to uneven color or unexpected results. For best and most predictable results, it’s better to choose the appropriate volume developer for your desired outcome, or consult a professional colorist.