So, you’ve taken the plunge and coloured your hair with a box dye. Maybe it didn’t turn out quite as expected, or perhaps you’re simply ready for a change. Now you’re left wondering: can you even colour over box dyed hair? The short answer is yes, but it’s a complex process that requires careful consideration and a healthy dose of caution. Colouring over box dye isn’t as simple as applying another shade and hoping for the best. It’s about understanding how box dyes work, the potential damage they can cause, and the best approaches to achieve your desired hair colour safely.
Understanding Box Dye and Its Impact on Your Hair
Box dye, readily available in drugstores and supermarkets, offers a convenient and affordable way to transform your hair colour at home. However, it’s important to acknowledge that box dyes aren’t created equal, and they differ significantly from professional salon colour.
The Chemical Composition of Box Dye
Box dyes often contain higher concentrations of ammonia and peroxide than professional salon products. This allows them to lift the hair’s natural colour and deposit the new shade effectively. While this potency can deliver dramatic results, it also poses a greater risk of damage, dryness, and uneven colour absorption. The high ammonia content can make the hair more porous, leading to unpredictable colour results when you try to colour over it.
Why Box Dye Can Be Tricky to Work With
The biggest challenge with box dye is its one-size-fits-all approach. Unlike salon colour, which is customized to your individual hair type, texture, and existing colour, box dyes are formulated to work on a wide range of hair tones. This lack of personalization can lead to unpredictable results, especially if you’re trying to correct a previous colour or achieve a specific shade. Furthermore, metallic salts can be present in some box dyes, although less common now, they can react negatively with professional hair colour, causing damage and even breakage.
Assessing the Condition of Your Box-Dyed Hair
Before you even think about colouring over box dye, it’s crucial to assess the condition of your hair. Is it dry, brittle, or prone to breakage? Does it feel rough or have a straw-like texture? These are all signs of damage, and colouring over already damaged hair can exacerbate the problem. If your hair is significantly damaged, it’s essential to focus on repairing and strengthening it before attempting any further colour treatments. Deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and gentle hair care practices can help restore your hair’s health and prepare it for the colouring process.
The Risks of Colouring Over Box Dyed Hair
Colouring over box dyed hair isn’t without its risks. Understanding these potential pitfalls can help you make informed decisions and avoid costly mistakes.
Uneven Colour and Banding
One of the most common issues when colouring over box dye is uneven colour distribution. This can result in patchy areas, banding (where different sections of your hair are different colours), and an overall inconsistent colour. This is particularly likely if your previous box dye application was uneven or if your hair is porous in certain areas. The uneven absorption of the new colour can lead to a frustrating and undesirable outcome.
Colour Build-Up and Muddy Tones
Repeatedly colouring your hair, especially with dark colours, can lead to colour build-up. This occurs when layers of dye accumulate on the hair shaft, making it difficult to achieve a lighter or brighter colour in the future. Colour build-up can also result in muddy or dull tones, as the various pigments in the dye mix and neutralize each other.
Hair Damage and Breakage
As mentioned earlier, box dyes can be harsh on the hair. Colouring over box-dyed hair, especially if it’s already damaged, can further weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage, split ends, and increased dryness. This is particularly true if you’re attempting a significant colour change, such as going from dark to light, which requires lifting the hair’s cuticle and can cause significant damage.
Unpredictable Colour Results
The unpredictable nature of box dye means that you may not achieve your desired colour when you try to colour over it. The existing dye can interact with the new colour in unexpected ways, resulting in a shade that’s different from what you intended. This is particularly true if you’re using a different brand or type of dye than the one you used previously.
Strategies for Successfully Colouring Over Box Dyed Hair
Despite the risks, it’s possible to successfully colour over box dyed hair. The key is to approach the process with caution, patience, and a strategic plan.
Consulting a Professional Colourist
The safest and most reliable way to colour over box dyed hair is to consult a professional colourist. A skilled colourist can assess your hair’s condition, analyze the existing colour, and develop a customized plan to achieve your desired shade while minimizing damage. They have the expertise and access to professional-grade products that are less harsh and more predictable than box dyes. Colour correction is a common service offered by salons, and a professional can help you navigate the complexities of lifting previous colour and achieving your desired result.
Strand Testing: Your Colouring Crystal Ball
If you’re determined to colour over box dye at home, strand testing is absolutely crucial. Before applying the new colour to your entire head, test it on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair. This will allow you to see how the colour interacts with the existing dye and whether you’re likely to achieve your desired result. Choose a section of hair that’s hidden, such as underneath the back of your head. Apply the dye according to the instructions and monitor the colour development closely. Strand testing can prevent you from making a costly mistake and damaging your entire head of hair.
Colour Removal Techniques
If you’re trying to go lighter, you may need to remove some of the existing box dye before applying the new colour. There are several colour removal techniques available, ranging from gentle to more aggressive options.
Using a Colour Remover
Colour removers are designed to lift artificial pigment from the hair without damaging it as much as bleach. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed out of the hair. It is important to follow the instructions carefully when using a colour remover, as overuse can still cause damage.
Gentle Colour Fading Methods
If you’re not in a rush, you can try gentle colour fading methods to gradually lighten your hair over time. These methods include using clarifying shampoos, washing your hair with hot water (which can fade the colour faster), and applying a mixture of baking soda and shampoo. While these methods are less effective than colour removers, they’re also less damaging to the hair.
Choosing the Right Colour
Selecting the right colour is crucial for a successful outcome. Consider the following factors when choosing your new shade:
Understanding the Colour Wheel
The colour wheel is a valuable tool for understanding how different colours interact with each other. If you’re trying to neutralize unwanted tones, such as brassiness or green hues, the colour wheel can help you choose the right colour to counteract them. For example, if your hair has a brassy tone, a blue or purple-based toner can help neutralize it.
Going Darker vs. Going Lighter
It’s generally easier to go darker than to go lighter when colouring over box dye. Lifting colour requires bleach or a high-lift dye, which can be very damaging to the hair. If you’re considering going lighter, it’s best to consult a professional colourist who can assess your hair’s condition and determine the safest approach.
Considering Your Natural Hair Colour
Your natural hair colour will also influence the final result. If you’re trying to achieve a colour that’s significantly different from your natural shade, you may need to pre-lighten your hair before applying the new colour. This is especially true if you have dark hair and want to go blonde.
The Importance of Deep Conditioning and Aftercare
Colouring over box dyed hair can be drying and damaging, so it’s essential to prioritize deep conditioning and aftercare. Use a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week to hydrate and nourish your hair. Look for products that contain moisturizing ingredients like argan oil, coconut oil, or shea butter.
Using Colour-Safe Products
Choose shampoos and conditioners that are specifically formulated for colour-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle on the hair and prevent colour fading. Avoid products that contain sulfates, which can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause the colour to fade more quickly.
Protecting Your Hair from Heat
Heat styling can further damage coloured hair, so it’s essential to minimize heat exposure. When using heat styling tools, such as hair dryers, straighteners, or curling irons, always use a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from the damaging effects of heat.
In conclusion, while it is possible to colour over box dyed hair, it is not without its risks and complexities. Consulting a professional is the safest route, but with careful planning, strand testing, and proper aftercare, you can achieve your desired colour at home. Remember to prioritize your hair’s health and choose products that are gentle and nourishing.
Can I immediately dye my hair a lighter colour after using a box dye?
Unfortunately, directly applying a lighter colour over box dyed hair is usually not successful and can lead to unpredictable results. Box dyes often contain metallic salts or high volumes of peroxide, which can react negatively with the lightening agents in lighter dyes. This can result in brassy tones, uneven lifting, or even chemical damage to the hair, causing it to become brittle and break.
Instead of immediately attempting a lighter colour, it’s recommended to consult with a professional hairstylist. They can assess the current condition of your hair, perform strand tests to determine how your hair will react, and recommend a safe and effective strategy. This might involve using colour removers or gradual lightening techniques to achieve the desired result while minimizing damage.
What are the risks of colouring over box dyed hair?
The primary risk when colouring over box dyed hair lies in the unpredictable chemical reactions that can occur between different formulations. Box dyes often contain chemicals that aren’t always compatible with professional salon products, leading to undesirable colour outcomes, such as murky or muddy tones. In severe cases, the hair can become severely damaged and may even require significant cutting to repair.
Beyond colour discrepancies and damage, another potential risk is sensitivity or allergic reactions. Repeated exposure to hair dye chemicals, especially when combined with previous box dye applications, can increase the likelihood of developing an allergic reaction. It is crucial to always perform a patch test before applying any new colour, particularly when you have a history of using box dyes.
How can I prepare my hair for colouring after using box dye?
Proper preparation is crucial for a successful colour transformation after box dyeing. Begin by focusing on intense hydration treatments to improve your hair’s health and resilience. Regularly using deep conditioning masks, hair oils, and protein treatments can help repair some of the damage caused by the box dye and make your hair more receptive to the new colour.
Moreover, consult a professional hairstylist for a detailed hair assessment. They can examine the condition of your hair, identify any potential problem areas, and suggest the most appropriate course of action. They may recommend a colour remover to gently lift the box dye or advise waiting a certain period before attempting any further colouring to allow your hair to recover.
What are the best colour remover options for box dyed hair?
When removing box dye, it’s important to distinguish between colour removers and bleaches. Colour removers, often referred to as “colour strippers,” work by breaking down the artificial dye molecules, allowing them to be washed away from the hair shaft. These are generally a gentler option than bleach, which directly lifts the natural pigment from the hair.
There are several types of colour removers available, ranging from DIY options like vitamin C treatments to professional-grade formulas. For home use, look for sulphate-free shampoos and clarifying treatments designed to lift colour gradually. However, for more dramatic colour correction, a professional stylist will be able to select the most effective colour remover and application technique to minimize damage.
How long should I wait before colouring my hair after using box dye?
The recommended waiting period before colouring your hair again after using a box dye depends on the condition of your hair. If your hair feels dry, brittle, or damaged, it’s essential to prioritize repair and recovery before introducing more chemicals. Waiting at least 4-6 weeks is generally recommended to allow your hair to regain some of its strength and moisture.
However, if your hair feels relatively healthy, and you’re only looking to make a subtle colour change, you might be able to proceed sooner. Still, a consultation with a professional stylist is crucial. They can assess the elasticity and porosity of your hair to determine its ability to withstand another colour treatment and suggest a gentle approach.
Can a salon completely fix a bad box dye job?
While a salon can often significantly improve a bad box dye job, complete correction might not always be possible in a single session. The extent to which a stylist can fix the damage depends on factors such as the severity of the colour disparity, the health of your hair, and the desired end result. Multiple appointments might be needed to gradually and safely achieve the desired colour.
A skilled stylist will use a combination of techniques, including colour correction, toning, and deep conditioning treatments, to address the specific issues caused by the box dye. They will also prioritize the health of your hair, avoiding harsh chemicals and aggressive treatments that could cause further damage. It’s important to have realistic expectations and trust the stylist’s expertise in guiding you through the process.
What type of hair dye is safest to use after box dye?
After using box dye, the safest approach is to opt for demi-permanent or semi-permanent colours, especially if your hair is already compromised. These dyes contain no ammonia and deposit colour without lifting the hair’s cuticle, making them a gentler alternative to permanent colours. They are also a good option for blending roots or adding tonal richness.
However, if you require a permanent colour change, consider a professional salon service. Stylists have access to high-quality products and the expertise to formulate colours that are less damaging to the hair. They can also perform strand tests to ensure the chosen colour is compatible with your previously box dyed hair and to minimize any adverse reactions.