Coloring your hair can dramatically change your look and boost your confidence. Perming your hair adds texture, volume, and style that can last for months. But what happens when you want both? The question of whether you can perm colored treated hair is a common one, fraught with considerations about hair health, chemical interactions, and the potential for damage. Let’s delve deep into this topic, exploring the science, risks, and best practices to help you make an informed decision.
Understanding the Chemical Processes: Color and Perms
Before we tackle the core question, it’s vital to understand how hair coloring and perming chemically alter your hair structure.
How Hair Coloring Works
Hair color works by opening the hair cuticle – the outermost layer – allowing color molecules to penetrate the cortex, the inner layer responsible for the hair’s strength, elasticity, and color. Permanent hair color usually involves two steps: lifting the natural pigment and depositing the new color. This process uses chemicals like ammonia and peroxide, which can be harsh and weaken the hair. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent colors are less damaging as they don’t lift as much, but still alter the hair’s structure to some extent.
How Hair Perming Works
Perming, short for “permanent wave,” also involves altering the hair’s structure. A perming solution, typically containing ammonium thioglycolate, breaks down the disulfide bonds within the hair’s cortex. These bonds are responsible for the hair’s natural shape and curl pattern. Once these bonds are broken, the hair is molded around rollers or rods to create the desired curl. Then, a neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide) is applied to reform the disulfide bonds in their new configuration, effectively “setting” the perm. This process, like coloring, can be damaging, especially if not performed correctly or on already weakened hair.
The Risks of Perming Colored Hair
Combining coloring and perming significantly increases the risk of hair damage. Here’s why:
Overlapping Chemical Processes
The main concern is the overlap of chemical processes. Both coloring and perming weaken the hair structure. Doing them close together can lead to excessive dryness, breakage, split ends, and a generally unhealthy appearance. Overlapping these processes can compromise the integrity of the hair.
Increased Porosity
Colored hair is often more porous than virgin hair. The coloring process makes the hair cuticle more open, allowing it to absorb moisture more readily. While this can be a benefit for hydration, it also means that the hair is more susceptible to damage from subsequent chemical treatments like perming. The perm solution can penetrate the hair shaft too quickly and deeply, leading to uneven results and increased breakage.
Color Fading and Changes
The perming process can also affect your hair color. The chemicals in the perm solution can strip away the color molecules, causing your color to fade or even change tone. For example, red and violet shades are particularly prone to fading, while blonde hair might develop unwanted brassy tones.
Assessing Your Hair’s Health Before a Perm
Before even considering a perm, it’s crucial to assess your hair’s current health and condition. This will help you determine if your hair is strong enough to withstand the additional chemical stress.
Signs of Healthy Hair
Healthy hair is usually strong, shiny, and elastic. It has minimal split ends and doesn’t break easily. It also retains moisture well and feels smooth to the touch. If your hair exhibits these characteristics, it might be in good enough condition to handle a perm, but further evaluation is still needed.
Signs of Damaged Hair
Damaged hair, on the other hand, is dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. It may have numerous split ends, feel rough or straw-like, and lack shine. It also tends to be overly porous, absorbing water quickly but also losing it just as fast. If your hair shows these signs, it’s best to postpone the perm and focus on repairing your hair first.
The Strand Test
One of the most reliable ways to assess your hair’s health is to perform a strand test. This involves taking a small section of your hair and subjecting it to a mini-perm treatment. This will give you an idea of how your hair will react to the chemicals and whether it can handle the full perming process. A professional stylist can perform a strand test for you, providing valuable insights into your hair’s condition.
Minimizing Damage: Strategies for Success
If you decide to proceed with a perm after coloring, there are several strategies you can implement to minimize damage and maximize your chances of success.
Timing is Everything
Ideally, you should wait at least two weeks, and preferably longer, between coloring and perming. This allows your hair to recover from the initial chemical process and rebuild some of its strength. The longer you wait, the better. Waiting allows the hair’s pH to stabilize.
Choose the Right Type of Perm
Different types of perms are available, each with varying levels of strength and gentleness. Acid perms are generally considered less damaging than alkaline perms, as they have a lower pH and don’t swell the hair shaft as much. Your stylist can help you choose the best type of perm for your hair type and condition. Digital perms also offer a controlled heat setting, which can be gentler.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments can help to strengthen and rebuild the hair structure. These treatments work by filling in the gaps in the hair cuticle, making it more resilient to damage. Use a protein treatment a few weeks before your perm to prepare your hair.
Moisturizing Treatments
Perming can strip the hair of its natural oils, leaving it dry and brittle. Regularly use moisturizing treatments, such as deep conditioners and hair masks, to replenish moisture and keep your hair hydrated. Look for products containing ingredients like shea butter, argan oil, and hyaluronic acid.
Proper Aftercare
After the perm, it’s crucial to follow a proper aftercare routine to maintain the health and appearance of your hair.
- Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for permed hair.
- Avoid washing your hair too frequently, as this can strip away moisture.
- Apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to keep your hair hydrated.
- Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle your hair gently.
- Avoid heat styling as much as possible, as heat can further damage permed hair.
The Role of a Professional Stylist
When it comes to perming colored hair, it’s always best to seek the advice and services of a professional stylist.
Expert Assessment
A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition accurately and determine if it’s healthy enough for a perm. They can also perform a strand test to gauge how your hair will react to the chemicals.
Customized Treatment
A skilled stylist can customize the perming treatment to your specific hair type, condition, and desired results. They can choose the right type of perm, adjust the processing time, and apply protective treatments to minimize damage.
Proper Technique
A professional stylist has the knowledge and experience to apply the perming solution correctly and evenly, ensuring consistent results and minimizing the risk of damage. They also know how to neutralize the perm properly to prevent over-processing.
Alternative Options: Gentler Ways to Achieve Texture
If you’re concerned about the potential damage from perming, there are several alternative options that can provide texture and volume without the harsh chemicals.
Heat Styling Tools
Curling irons, wands, and hot rollers can be used to create temporary curls and waves. While heat styling can still cause some damage, it’s generally less damaging than perming, especially if you use heat protectant products.
Braiding and Twisting
Braiding and twisting your hair can create beautiful waves and curls without any heat or chemicals. Simply braid or twist your hair while it’s damp, and then unravel it when it’s dry. This method is gentle and allows you to experiment with different textures.
Rod Sets and Flexi Rods
Using rod sets or flexi rods is another heatless way to create curls. Wrap sections of your damp hair around the rods, secure them in place, and let your hair air dry. The result is bouncy, well-defined curls without the risk of chemical damage.
Sea Salt Sprays
Sea salt sprays can add texture and volume to your hair, creating a beachy, tousled look. These sprays work by roughening up the hair cuticle, giving it a more voluminous appearance.
Long-Term Hair Care for Permed and Colored Hair
Even with the best precautions, perming and coloring can still take a toll on your hair. Long-term care is essential to maintain its health and appearance.
Regular Trims
Trimming your hair regularly (every 6-8 weeks) helps to remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft, causing further damage.
Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning treatments should be a regular part of your hair care routine. These treatments help to replenish moisture, repair damage, and improve the overall health of your hair.
Protective Hairstyles
Protective hairstyles, such as braids, buns, and updos, can help to shield your hair from environmental damage and reduce breakage. These styles are particularly beneficial for permed and colored hair, which is already more vulnerable.
Diet and Hydration
A healthy diet and adequate hydration are essential for overall hair health. Make sure you’re eating a balanced diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and protein. Also, drink plenty of water to keep your hair hydrated from the inside out.
Gentle Handling
Handle your hair with care, especially when it’s wet. Wet hair is more fragile and prone to breakage. Avoid aggressive brushing, towel-drying, and tight hairstyles.
When to Say No: Knowing Your Hair’s Limits
Despite all the strategies and precautions, there are times when it’s simply best to say no to perming your colored hair.
Severely Damaged Hair
If your hair is already severely damaged, brittle, or breaking easily, perming is likely to cause further damage and could even lead to hair loss. Focus on repairing your hair first before considering any further chemical treatments.
Recent Chemical Treatments
If you’ve recently had other chemical treatments, such as bleaching, relaxing, or straightening, it’s best to avoid perming your hair. Overlapping chemical processes can overload your hair and cause significant damage.
Fine or Thin Hair
Fine or thin hair is naturally more delicate and prone to damage. Perming can weigh down fine hair and make it look even thinner. It’s best to explore alternative options for adding volume and texture.
Scalp Issues
If you have any scalp issues, such as dandruff, psoriasis, or eczema, it’s best to address these concerns before perming your hair. The chemicals in the perming solution can irritate your scalp and worsen these conditions.
Perming colored hair is possible, but it requires careful consideration, thorough preparation, and a commitment to proper aftercare. By understanding the risks, assessing your hair’s health, and working with a professional stylist, you can increase your chances of achieving beautiful, bouncy curls without compromising the health of your hair. However, remember that sometimes the best decision is to prioritize the health of your hair and explore gentler alternatives.
Can I perm my hair if it’s recently been color-treated?
It’s generally not recommended to perm hair immediately after a color treatment. Both perming and coloring are chemical processes that alter the hair’s structure. Performing them too closely together can lead to over-processing, resulting in significant damage, breakage, and dryness. It’s best to wait at least two weeks, and ideally longer (around a month), between a color treatment and a perm to allow the hair to recover and minimize the risk of damage.
The waiting period gives your hair time to replenish some of its natural oils and repair the cuticle layer. You can also use deep conditioning treatments during this time to strengthen and hydrate the hair. Always consult with a professional stylist who can assess your hair’s condition and advise you on the safest course of action, considering factors like the type of color treatment you had and the overall health of your hair.
What type of perm is best for color-treated hair?
Acid perms are often considered a gentler option for color-treated hair compared to alkaline perms. Acid perms have a lower pH level, which means they swell the hair shaft less, minimizing the potential for damage. This makes them a better choice for hair that has already undergone chemical processing, as they are less likely to cause excessive dryness and breakage.
However, it’s important to note that even acid perms can be damaging, especially to heavily processed hair. Consult with a stylist experienced in perming color-treated hair to determine the most suitable type and strength of perm solution based on your hair’s specific needs and condition. They may also suggest a test strand to assess how your hair will react to the perm.
How can I prepare my color-treated hair for a perm?
Preparing your color-treated hair for a perm involves a focus on strengthening and hydrating it. Start by using deep conditioning treatments regularly in the weeks leading up to your perm appointment. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, proteins, and moisturizing oils to help repair and fortify the hair shaft. Avoid using heat styling tools as much as possible to minimize further damage.
Prior to the perm, inform your stylist about your color history and any recent chemical treatments you’ve had. They may recommend a protein treatment to strengthen the hair’s bonds or a clarifying shampoo to remove any buildup that could interfere with the perm process. A healthy foundation is crucial for achieving the best possible results and minimizing potential damage.
What are the risks of perming color-treated hair?
Perming color-treated hair inherently carries a higher risk of damage compared to perming virgin hair. The double chemical processing can lead to over-processing, resulting in dry, brittle hair that is prone to breakage. The hair may also become significantly more porous, making it difficult to retain moisture and leading to increased frizz and tangles.
Furthermore, the perm process can potentially alter the existing hair color, causing fading, discoloration, or unwanted tones. In severe cases, the hair may experience significant damage, leading to hair loss or the need for a drastic haircut to remove the damaged sections. Consulting with a professional stylist is essential to assess these risks and determine the best approach for your hair.
How can I maintain my perm and color after the treatment?
Maintaining both your perm and color requires a commitment to gentle and hydrating hair care practices. Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for color-treated and permed hair. These products help to cleanse the hair without stripping away essential oils or fading the color. Incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your routine at least once a week to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair.
Avoid excessive heat styling, as it can further damage the hair and cause the perm to loosen. Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle wet hair gently, starting from the ends and working your way up. Consider using leave-in conditioners or curl creams to define and hydrate the perm, and touch up your color as needed, being mindful of the potential for overlap with the permed area.
What should I do if my hair feels damaged after perming color-treated hair?
If your hair feels damaged after perming color-treated hair, prioritize hydration and protein. Immediately start using deep conditioning treatments with ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and argan oil to replenish moisture. Incorporate protein treatments to help rebuild the hair’s structure and strengthen the bonds that have been weakened by the chemical processes.
Avoid further chemical treatments, heat styling, and harsh handling of the hair. Consider getting a trim to remove any split ends or severely damaged sections. If the damage is severe, consult with a professional stylist or trichologist for personalized advice and treatment options to help restore your hair’s health.
How long should I wait to color my hair after perming it?
Similar to waiting after coloring before a perm, it’s also important to wait after perming before coloring again. A waiting period of at least two weeks is generally recommended, although waiting longer, around a month, is ideal to allow the hair to recover from the perm process. This gives your hair time to rebuild its strength and moisture levels.
Before coloring, perform a strand test to assess how your hair will react to the dye after being permed. This will help you avoid any unexpected color results or further damage. Choose a gentle, ammonia-free color formula and consider opting for a demi-permanent or semi-permanent color instead of a permanent one, as they are less damaging to already processed hair.