Corduroy, with its distinctive ribbed texture and comfortable feel, has been a fashion staple for decades. But when shopping for corduroy, whether for clothing, upholstery, or craft projects, one question often arises: how wide is corduroy material, and what does that even mean? The answer isn’t as simple as a single measurement, as “width” in the context of corduroy refers to several different aspects. Let’s delve into the world of corduroy widths and wales to fully understand this fascinating fabric.
Understanding Corduroy Wales: The Key to Width
The most crucial element in understanding corduroy width is recognizing the concept of “wales.” A wale refers to the raised ridges or cords that run lengthwise along the fabric. These wales are what give corduroy its unique texture and visual appeal. The “width” of corduroy, in this context, isn’t typically the overall fabric width (though that’s also important and discussed later), but rather the number of wales per inch. This wale count is a key characteristic that defines the type and appearance of corduroy.
Wale Count: Defining Corduroy Types
The number of wales per inch determines the fineness or coarseness of the corduroy. A higher wale count means finer, thinner wales, resulting in a smoother, more subtle texture. Conversely, a lower wale count indicates thicker, more prominent wales, creating a more pronounced and rugged appearance. Different types of corduroy are classified based on their wale count.
- Pinwale Corduroy (also called Needlecord): This type boasts the highest wale count, typically ranging from 16 to 23 wales per inch. Pinwale corduroy is known for its soft, smooth feel and is often used for lightweight garments like shirts, dresses, and children’s wear. Its subtle texture makes it a versatile choice for a refined look.
- Mid-Wale Corduroy: Falling in the middle of the spectrum, mid-wale corduroy generally has a wale count of 10 to 13 wales per inch. This is a common and versatile type of corduroy, suitable for a wide range of applications, from pants and jackets to upholstery.
- Wide-Wale Corduroy (also called Elephant Cord): Characterized by its thick, prominent wales, wide-wale corduroy typically has a wale count of 3 to 8 wales per inch. This type is often used for more rugged applications, such as outerwear, workwear, and heavy-duty upholstery. Its bold texture makes a statement.
Why Wale Count Matters
The wale count of corduroy influences not only its appearance and texture but also its durability, drape, and suitability for different projects. Finer wale corduroys tend to be more delicate and have a better drape, making them ideal for garments that require a softer silhouette. Wider wale corduroys are more durable and resistant to wear and tear, making them a better choice for items that need to withstand frequent use or abrasion.
When choosing corduroy for a specific project, consider the desired look, feel, and functionality. For example, if you’re making a pair of dress pants, pinwale or mid-wale corduroy would be a more appropriate choice than wide-wale corduroy. Conversely, if you’re upholstering a sofa, wide-wale corduroy might be a better option due to its durability.
Understanding Fabric Width: Beyond the Wales
While the wale count is crucial for identifying the type of corduroy, the overall fabric width is also an important consideration, especially when purchasing corduroy for a specific project. Fabric width refers to the measurement from one finished edge of the fabric to the other.
Standard Corduroy Fabric Widths
Corduroy fabric is typically available in a range of widths, depending on the manufacturer and intended use. Common widths include:
- 45 inches (114 cm): This narrower width is often used for apparel and smaller craft projects.
- 54 inches (137 cm): A slightly wider option, suitable for a variety of applications.
- 58/60 inches (147/152 cm): This is a very common width for apparel and some upholstery projects, offering a good balance between fabric yield and ease of handling.
- 72 inches (183 cm) or wider: These wider widths are typically used for upholstery, drapery, and other large-scale projects. They can minimize the number of seams required, resulting in a more professional finish.
Factors Affecting Fabric Width
Several factors can influence the final width of corduroy fabric:
- Manufacturing Process: The weaving and finishing processes can affect the fabric’s final width.
- Shrinkage: Corduroy, like other natural fabrics, can shrink after washing. Manufacturers often pre-shrink their fabrics to minimize this effect, but it’s always a good idea to pre-wash corduroy before sewing to avoid any unexpected shrinkage.
- Selvedge: The selvedge is the finished edge of the fabric that prevents it from unraveling. It’s typically a different texture or color than the main fabric and is not meant to be used in the finished project. When measuring fabric width, it’s important to measure from the finished edge of the fabric, excluding the selvedge.
Why Fabric Width Matters for Projects
Knowing the fabric width is essential for calculating the amount of corduroy needed for a project. Before purchasing fabric, carefully measure the dimensions of the pattern pieces and consider the fabric width to determine how much fabric to buy. It’s always a good idea to purchase extra fabric to allow for mistakes, shrinkage, and pattern matching. Fabric width impacts the efficiency of cutting and using your material and ultimately how much you will need to buy to complete your project.
The Interplay of Wale Count and Fabric Width
While wale count and fabric width are distinct characteristics, they both play a role in determining the overall suitability of corduroy for a particular project. The interplay between these two factors influences the fabric’s appearance, texture, drape, and durability.
Choosing the Right Combination
When selecting corduroy, consider the following:
- Desired Look and Feel: Do you want a smooth, subtle texture or a more pronounced, rugged appearance? This will guide your choice of wale count.
- Project Requirements: Is the fabric intended for apparel, upholstery, or crafts? This will influence your choice of both wale count and fabric width.
- Pattern Layout: How efficiently can you lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric, given its width? This will help you determine how much fabric to buy.
Examples of Combining Wale Count and Fabric Width
Here are a few examples of how wale count and fabric width might be considered together:
- Making a child’s dress: Pinwale corduroy with a width of 45 inches or 54 inches would be a suitable choice. The fine wales would create a soft, comfortable feel, and the narrower width would be easy to handle.
- Upholstering a sofa: Wide-wale corduroy with a width of 72 inches or wider would be ideal. The thick wales would provide durability and visual interest, and the wider width would minimize the number of seams required.
- Sewing a pair of pants: Mid-wale corduroy with a width of 58/60 inches would be a versatile option. The moderate wales would be suitable for a variety of styles, and the width would provide ample fabric for cutting the pattern pieces.
Caring for Corduroy: Maintaining Width and Quality
Proper care is essential for maintaining the width and quality of corduroy fabric. Following these guidelines will help ensure that your corduroy items last for years to come:
- Washing: Wash corduroy inside out in cold water on a gentle cycle. This will help prevent fading and protect the wales from abrasion.
- Drying: Tumble dry on low heat or hang to dry. Avoid over-drying, as this can cause shrinkage.
- Ironing: Iron corduroy on the reverse side using a low heat setting. Use a pressing cloth to protect the wales from damage.
- Storage: Store corduroy items folded or hung in a cool, dry place. Avoid storing them in direct sunlight, as this can cause fading.
Conclusion: Corduroy Width Demystified
Understanding the different aspects of corduroy width – particularly the importance of wale count and its relationship to overall fabric width – is key to selecting the right material for any project. By considering these factors, you can choose corduroy that not only looks and feels great but also meets the specific needs of your intended application. Whether you’re sewing a delicate garment or upholstering a durable piece of furniture, the right combination of wale count and fabric width will ensure a successful and satisfying outcome. With its versatility and timeless appeal, corduroy remains a beloved fabric for a reason, and knowing its nuances only enhances its potential.
What exactly does “wale” mean in the context of corduroy fabric?
The term “wale” in corduroy refers to the raised ribs, cords, or ridges that run lengthwise along the fabric. These wales are formed by cut piles of yarn that are then brushed, creating the characteristic texture of corduroy. The number of wales indicates how many of these ridges are present per inch of fabric.
Understanding wale count is crucial for differentiating between various types of corduroy. A higher wale count signifies a finer, more closely spaced ribbing, resulting in a softer, more subtle texture. Conversely, a lower wale count indicates wider, more pronounced ribs, leading to a more robust and textured feel.
How does the wale count affect the overall appearance and feel of corduroy?
The wale count directly impacts the appearance of corduroy by influencing the prominence and density of the vertical ribs. A lower wale count corduroy, such as wide-wale or jumbo corduroy, features thicker, more visible ridges, lending a bolder and more casual look. This type of corduroy often feels more substantial and durable.
Conversely, a higher wale count corduroy, such as pinwale or micro corduroy, possesses finer, less pronounced ridges. This creates a smoother, more refined appearance, making it suitable for dressier garments and home decor items. The fabric feels softer and more flexible compared to its lower wale count counterparts.
What are some common wale counts found in different types of corduroy?
Common wale counts vary widely depending on the intended use and style of the corduroy. Jumbo or wide-wale corduroy typically features 1.5 to 3 wales per inch, offering a rugged and textured appearance. Standard or regular corduroy falls in the range of 8 to 13 wales per inch, providing a balance between texture and comfort.
Pinwale corduroy, also known as needlecord or baby corduroy, boasts a much higher count, generally between 16 and 23 wales per inch. This results in a fine, velvety texture and a more polished look. Micro corduroy can even exceed 25 wales per inch, creating an almost smooth surface that closely resembles velvet.
Why is knowing the wale count important when choosing corduroy fabric?
Knowing the wale count is vital because it dictates the fabric’s aesthetic appeal, texture, and suitability for specific projects. Choosing the appropriate wale count ensures that the final product aligns with the intended look and feel. For example, a wide-wale corduroy might be perfect for a casual jacket, while a pinwale corduroy might be better suited for a dress shirt or lined skirt.
Moreover, the wale count can influence the fabric’s durability and maintenance requirements. Wider wales tend to be more resilient and easier to clean, whereas finer wales may require more delicate handling. Therefore, considering the wale count helps in selecting a corduroy that meets both the design and practical requirements of a project.
How does fabric width relate to the “width” of corduroy, considering wales?
While “wale” refers to the ridges running lengthwise, fabric width is the measurement from selvage to selvage, determining how much material you get across the roll. These are two distinct dimensions. Fabric width, typically in inches, affects how efficiently you can cut out pattern pieces and minimize waste.
However, the wales themselves can subtly influence the drape and manageability of the wider fabric. A very wide-wale corduroy might feel stiffer and bulkier than a pinwale version of the same width, impacting how the fabric falls and shapes during construction. Therefore, both dimensions are important considerations.
Are there standard fabric widths for corduroy, and how do they compare to other fabrics?
Standard fabric widths for corduroy generally range from 45 inches to 60 inches, which is similar to many other common fabrics like cotton and linen. However, some specialty corduroys might be found in narrower or wider widths depending on the manufacturer and intended use. Checking the bolt or online description is always recommended.
Compared to fabrics like quilting cotton (often 42-45 inches) or upholstery fabric (often 54-60 inches or wider), corduroy sits comfortably in the middle range. This makes it fairly versatile for a variety of sewing projects, though planning your layout carefully is always important to maximize fabric usage, especially given corduroy’s directional nap.
Does the direction of the wales matter when working with corduroy fabric?
Yes, the direction of the wales, also known as the nap, is crucial when working with corduroy. Like velvet or other piled fabrics, corduroy reflects light differently depending on the direction of the wales. This means that pattern pieces should be laid out with the wales running in the same direction to ensure consistent color and texture across the finished garment.
Generally, it is recommended to cut corduroy with the wales running downwards, meaning that the fabric feels smoother when stroked downwards. This often creates a richer, deeper color. Cutting against the nap will make the color appear slightly lighter and the texture more pronounced. Failing to consider the nap direction can lead to visible inconsistencies in the final product.