When it comes to achieving the perfect blonde shade or maintaining your already bleached hair, one of the most crucial decisions you’ll make is choosing the right developer. The developer is what lifts your hair to the desired level, and its volume can significantly affect the outcome of your hair coloring process. If you’re considering using either 20 or 30 volume developer on hair that’s already been bleached, it’s essential to understand what each volume can do and how it might interact with your hair’s current state.
Understanding Hair Developers
Hair developers, also known as oxidants, are used in conjunction with hair color or bleach to lift the hair’s natural pigment, allowing the color to penetrate and deposit onto the hair shaft. The volume of the developer refers to its strength and lifting ability. The most common volumes used are 10, 20, 30, and 40, with higher volumes providing more lift.
Lifting Power of Developers
- 10 Volume Developer: This is the weakest and typically used for depositing color without lift. It’s not commonly used for bleaching.
- 20 Volume Developer: Provides a moderate amount of lift, about 2 levels, and is often used for coloring and lightening.
- 30 Volume Developer: Offers more significant lift, around 3 levels, and is frequently used for bleaching and achieving lighter shades.
- 40 Volume Developer: The strongest developer, providing the most lift (about 4 levels), but it’s also the most damaging and is usually reserved for professional use.
Considerations for Already Bleached Hair
Hair that has already been bleached is more porous and may be more susceptible to damage because the cuticle layer is lifted, and the natural pigment has been mostly removed. When deciding between 20 and 30 volume developer for already bleached hair, consider the following factors:
Current Condition of the Hair
If your hair is already light but not as light as you desire, 20 volume developer might be sufficient to achieve the next level of lightness without causing excessive damage. However, if you’re aiming for a significant lift, 30 volume developer could be the way to go, but with caution due to its higher potential for damage.
Desired Outcome
Your goal for the hair coloring process plays a significant role. If you’re looking for a subtle change, a lower volume might suffice. For more dramatic results, you may lean towards a higher volume developer.
Potential for Damage
Already bleached hair is more vulnerable to further damage. Using a 30 volume developer can lead to over-processing, especially if your hair is already fragile or over-bleached. This could result in dryness, breakage, or an undesirable texture.
Choosing Between 20 and 30 Volume Developer
The choice between 20 and 30 volume developer for already bleached hair should be guided by the current health of your hair and the degree of lift you’re aiming for. Here are some general guidelines to consider:
For Healthier Bleached Hair
If your bleached hair is still relatively healthy and you’re looking for another level or two of lift, 20 volume developer could be the safest option. It offers enough lift for most coloring needs without the higher risk of damage associated with higher volumes.
For More Significant Lift Needs
In cases where a more substantial lift is required, and you’re willing to take on the associated risks, 30 volume developer might be considered. However, this should be approached with caution, and the processing time should be closely monitored to avoid over-processing.
Protecting Your Hair During the Process
Regardless of the developer volume you choose, protecting your hair from further damage is crucial. Here are some tips to help minimize damage:
- Use a pre-color treatment to nourish and moisturize your hair before applying any color or bleach.
- Monitor the processing time closely. The recommended time is usually 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the product and desired outcome.
- Avoid overlapping the product on previously colored or bleached hair, as this can cause hot spots and lead to excessive damage.
- Follow up with a moisturizing treatment after coloring to help restore your hair’s moisture balance.
Conclusion
Deciding between 20 and 30 volume developer for already bleached hair is a nuanced decision that requires careful consideration of your hair’s current condition, your desired outcome, and the potential risks involved. While 20 volume developer is generally safer and provides a moderate lift, 30 volume developer can offer more significant lift but at a higher risk of damage. Ultimately, the choice should be made with the guidance of a professional hairstylist, especially if you’re unsure about the best approach for your hair. Remember, the health and integrity of your hair should always be the top priority when making decisions about hair coloring or bleaching.
What is the main difference between 20 and 30 volume developers for already bleached hair?
The main difference between 20 and 30 volume developers for already bleached hair lies in their ability to lift the hair color. A 20 volume developer is considered to be a lower volume developer, and it is typically used for maintaining or slightly adjusting the existing hair color. On the other hand, a 30 volume developer is a higher volume developer that can lift the hair color up to 3-4 levels, making it ideal for those who want to achieve a significantly lighter shade.
When choosing between 20 and 30 volume developers for already bleached hair, it’s essential to consider the current state of the hair and the desired outcome. If the hair is already heavily bleached, using a 30 volume developer may cause further damage or over-processing. In such cases, a 20 volume developer may be a safer choice to avoid any adverse effects. However, if the goal is to achieve a lighter shade, a 30 volume developer can be used, but it’s crucial to follow the instructions carefully and take necessary precautions to minimize damage.
Can I use a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair without damaging it?
Using a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair can be risky, as it may cause further damage or over-processing. Bleached hair is already prone to dryness and breakage, and applying a higher volume developer can exacerbate these issues. However, if used carefully and with the right precautions, a 30 volume developer can be used to achieve the desired results. It’s essential to follow the instructions carefully and take necessary steps to minimize damage, such as using a pre-color treatment or a conditioning mask after the coloring process.
To minimize the risk of damage, it’s recommended to do a strand test before applying the 30 volume developer to the entire head. This will help determine how the hair responds to the developer and allow for any necessary adjustments. Additionally, using a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair may require a shorter processing time to avoid over-processing. It’s also crucial to choose a developer that is formulated for bleached or damaged hair, as these products are designed to be gentler and more nourishing.
How do I choose the right developer for my already bleached hair?
Choosing the right developer for already bleached hair depends on several factors, including the current state of the hair, the desired outcome, and the level of lift required. If the hair is heavily damaged or over-processed, a lower volume developer (such as 10 or 20 volume) may be a safer choice. On the other hand, if the goal is to achieve a significantly lighter shade, a higher volume developer (such as 30 volume) may be necessary. It’s essential to consider the hair’s porosity, elasticity, and moisture levels when selecting a developer.
When selecting a developer, it’s also important to consider the type of color or toner being used. For example, if using a pastel or vibrant color, a lower volume developer may be preferred to avoid over-processing. Conversely, if using a lighter or ash-based toner, a higher volume developer may be necessary to achieve the desired results. Ultimately, consulting a professional hairstylist or colorist can help determine the best developer for already bleached hair, as they can assess the hair’s condition and provide personalized recommendations.
What are the risks of using a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair?
Using a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair carries several risks, including over-processing, damage, and breakage. Bleached hair is already prone to dryness and fragility, and applying a higher volume developer can exacerbate these issues. Over-processing can cause the hair to become brittle, prone to breakage, and even lead to hair loss. Additionally, using a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair can also lead to uneven color distribution, resulting in unwanted warm or brassy tones.
To minimize the risks associated with using a 30 volume developer on already bleached hair, it’s essential to take necessary precautions. This includes doing a strand test before applying the developer to the entire head, using a pre-color treatment or conditioning mask, and following the instructions carefully. It’s also crucial to choose a developer that is formulated for bleached or damaged hair, as these products are designed to be gentler and more nourishing. Regular trims and hair care routines can also help maintain the health and integrity of the hair, reducing the risk of damage and breakage.
Can I use a 20 volume developer to achieve a lighter shade on already bleached hair?
While a 20 volume developer can be used to maintain or slightly adjust the existing hair color, it may not be sufficient to achieve a significantly lighter shade on already bleached hair. A 20 volume developer can lift the hair color up to 1-2 levels, but it may not provide enough lift to achieve a dramatically lighter shade. However, if the goal is to achieve a subtle, natural-looking color, a 20 volume developer can be a good choice.
To achieve a lighter shade with a 20 volume developer, it’s essential to choose the right color or toner. For example, using a lighter or ash-based toner can help to neutralize warm tones and achieve a cooler, lighter shade. However, if the goal is to achieve a significantly lighter shade, a higher volume developer (such as 30 volume) may be necessary. It’s also important to consider the hair’s porosity and elasticity when using a 20 volume developer, as this can affect the color’s ability to penetrate and deposit evenly.
How do I care for my hair after using a developer on already bleached hair?
After using a developer on already bleached hair, it’s essential to provide extra care and attention to maintain the hair’s health and integrity. This includes using a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, as well as a nourishing mask or deep conditioning treatment. Regular trims can also help to prevent split ends and breakage, reducing the risk of further damage. Additionally, using a color-protecting or color-depositing product can help to maintain the color’s vibrancy and longevity.
To further care for the hair, it’s recommended to avoid using heat styling tools or harsh chemicals, as these can exacerbate dryness and damage. Using a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush can also help to minimize breakage and tangles, reducing the risk of further damage. Finally, protecting the hair from environmental stressors, such as sun exposure or pollution, can help to maintain the hair’s health and color. By following these tips and using the right products, it’s possible to maintain healthy, vibrant hair even after using a developer on already bleached hair.
Can I use a developer on already bleached hair if I have previously used a box dye or at-home color kit?
Using a developer on already bleached hair that has previously been colored with a box dye or at-home color kit can be challenging, as these products can leave behind stubborn pigment deposits. However, it’s not impossible to use a developer on previously colored hair. To achieve the best results, it’s essential to choose a developer that is specifically formulated for use on previously colored hair, and to follow the instructions carefully.
Before using a developer on previously colored hair, it’s recommended to do a strand test to determine the hair’s porosity and elasticity. This will help to determine the best developer to use and the optimal processing time. Additionally, using a color remover or color corrector can help to remove any existing pigment deposits and create a more even canvas for the new color. It’s also crucial to choose a developer that is gentle and nourishing, as previously colored hair can be more prone to dryness and damage. By taking the right precautions and using the right products, it’s possible to achieve great results with a developer on previously colored hair.