Navigating the world of hair color can feel like deciphering a secret code. From subtle highlights to bold transformations, understanding the underlying principles of hair color levels is crucial for achieving your desired look. One common question that arises, especially during the lightening process, is: what level hair color is considered orange? The answer, while seemingly simple, requires a nuanced understanding of the hair color scale and the underlying pigments present in hair. This article delves deep into the hair color scale, explores the role of underlying pigments, and pinpoints the specific levels where orange tones predominantly manifest.
The Hair Color Level System: A Foundation for Understanding
The hair color level system, established and utilized by professionals worldwide, provides a standardized way to describe and classify hair color. It’s a numerical scale, typically ranging from 1 to 10, that indicates the darkness or lightness of a hair color. Understanding this system is essential for effective communication with your stylist and predicting the outcome of any hair coloring process.
Deciphering the Numbers: From Black to Platinum
The hair color level system isn’t arbitrary. Each number corresponds to a specific range of shades:
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Level 1: Black: The darkest shade, absorbing almost all light.
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Level 2: Very Dark Brown: A deep, rich brown, bordering on black.
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Level 3: Dark Brown: A true dark brown shade, with noticeable depth.
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Level 4: Medium Brown: A balanced brown, neither too dark nor too light.
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Level 5: Light Brown: A lighter brown, often referred to as “brunette.”
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Level 6: Dark Blonde: The darkest shade of blonde, often confused with light brown.
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Level 7: Medium Blonde: A balanced blonde, neither too dark nor too light.
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Level 8: Light Blonde: A lighter blonde, approaching the platinum range.
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Level 9: Very Light Blonde: A very pale blonde, almost platinum.
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Level 10: Lightest Blonde (Platinum): The lightest possible shade, reflecting almost all light.
It’s important to remember that these are general guidelines. Individual variations in hair pigmentation and undertones can influence the perceived shade.
The Importance of Consulting a Professional
While this information can be helpful, achieving your desired hair color is best accomplished with the help of a professional. A skilled stylist can accurately assess your current hair color, understand your hair’s health and porosity, and formulate a custom color plan to achieve your desired results while minimizing damage. They have access to professional-grade products and the expertise to use them correctly.
Unveiling Underlying Pigments: The Key to Understanding Orange
All hair, regardless of its natural color, contains underlying pigments. These pigments, primarily melanin, are responsible for the hair’s base color and play a crucial role in how hair reacts to coloring processes, especially lightening. Understanding these pigments is key to understanding why orange tones often appear when lightening hair.
The Melanin Connection: Eumelanin and Pheomelanin
There are two main types of melanin that contribute to hair color: eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown and black pigments, while pheomelanin is responsible for red and yellow pigments. The ratio of these two types of melanin determines the natural color of your hair. Darker hair has a higher concentration of eumelanin, while lighter hair has a higher concentration of pheomelanin.
The Lightening Process: Unmasking the Underlying Pigments
When you lighten your hair, you’re essentially removing melanin. However, the lightening process doesn’t remove all pigments equally. Eumelanin, being larger and more complex, is typically broken down first, revealing the smaller and more resilient pheomelanin pigments – red and yellow. This is why hair often goes through stages of red, orange, and yellow during the lightening process.
The Stages of Lightening: A Visual Guide
The following table shows the level of underlying pigments revealed when lightening the hair:
| Level | Underlying Pigment |
| —– | ——————– |
| 1-2 | Red-Brown |
| 3 | Red |
| 4 | Red-Orange |
| 5 | Orange |
| 6 | Orange-Yellow |
| 7 | Yellow |
| 8 | Pale Yellow |
| 9-10 | Very Pale Yellow |
Pinpointing the Orange Zone: Levels 4, 5, and 6
Now, let’s get to the heart of the question: at what level is hair color considered orange? While the perception of color can be subjective, the answer generally lies within levels 4, 5, and 6 of the hair color scale.
Level 4: Red-Orange Tones
At level 4, which corresponds to a medium brown, the underlying pigment is predominantly red-orange. This means that if you attempt to lighten hair that is naturally level 4, you’ll likely encounter significant red-orange tones as the lightening process progresses.
Level 5: The Orange Threshold
Level 5, or light brown, is arguably the “orange zone.” At this level, the underlying pigment is primarily orange. Lightening hair from level 5 almost invariably results in prominent orange tones. This is a crucial point to consider when aiming for lighter shades.
Level 6: Orange-Yellow Transition
Level 6, dark blonde, represents a transition from orange to yellow. While orange is still present, it’s typically mixed with yellow tones. Lightening hair from this level will likely result in a mix of orange and yellow, making it slightly easier to achieve a cooler blonde compared to starting at level 5.
Neutralizing Orange: Toning and Color Correction
The appearance of orange tones during lightening can be frustrating, but it’s a natural part of the process. Fortunately, there are ways to neutralize these unwanted tones and achieve your desired color. Toning, using products with blue or purple pigments, is a common method for counteracting orange and brassy tones. The color wheel dictates that blue neutralizes orange, while purple neutralizes yellow. Color correction, which might involve adding specific pigments to the hair, is another approach used by professionals to address underlying tones and achieve a balanced result.
Factors Influencing Orange Tones
Several factors influence the intensity and persistence of orange tones during the lightening process. Understanding these factors can help you anticipate potential challenges and plan accordingly.
Hair Porosity: A Key Consideration
Hair porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. Hair with high porosity absorbs color quickly but also releases it quickly, potentially leading to faster fading and the reappearance of underlying orange tones. Conversely, hair with low porosity can be resistant to color absorption, requiring more effort to lift the base color.
Hair History: Previous Color Treatments
Previous color treatments can significantly impact the outcome of future coloring processes. Previously colored hair can have multiple layers of pigment buildup, making it more difficult to lighten evenly and potentially intensifying orange tones. It’s crucial to inform your stylist about your hair’s color history so they can formulate a plan that addresses any existing pigment buildup.
Developer Volume: The Power of Lift
Developer volume, a key component of hair color formulas, determines the lifting power of the lightener. Higher developer volumes lift the hair faster, but also increase the risk of damage. Using too high of a developer volume can lead to excessive orange tones, while using too low of a volume might not lift the hair sufficiently.
Hair Condition: Healthy Hair Responds Best
Healthy hair responds better to coloring processes than damaged hair. Damaged hair is more porous and prone to breakage, making it difficult to achieve even color and increasing the risk of unwanted tones. Prioritizing hair health through regular conditioning and minimizing heat styling can improve the outcome of any hair coloring treatment.
Beyond the Basics: Advanced Color Theory
For those who want to delve deeper into the world of hair color, understanding advanced color theory can be invaluable. This involves understanding the color wheel, complementary colors, and the principles of color mixing.
The Color Wheel: A Guide to Neutralization
The color wheel is a visual representation of colors and their relationships to one another. Complementary colors, located opposite each other on the color wheel, neutralize each other. For example, blue neutralizes orange, and green neutralizes red. Understanding these relationships is essential for effective color correction.
Color Mixing: Achieving Custom Shades
Color mixing involves combining different hair color shades to create custom tones. This requires a thorough understanding of color theory and the properties of different pigments. By carefully mixing colors, stylists can create unique and personalized shades that perfectly complement their clients’ skin tones and preferences.
The Importance of Patch Testing
Before applying any hair color to the entire head, it’s crucial to perform a patch test. This involves applying a small amount of the color to a discreet area of skin to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities. Patch testing can prevent potentially serious reactions and ensure a safe and comfortable coloring experience.
Understanding the hair color scale, underlying pigments, and the factors that influence orange tones is crucial for achieving your desired hair color. While this article provides a comprehensive overview, consulting with a professional stylist is always recommended to ensure the best possible results and minimize the risk of damage. Remember, healthy hair is the foundation for beautiful color.
What hair color levels are typically considered orange?
Orange tones in hair usually appear between levels 5 and 7 on the standard hair color level system. Level 5 is often described as light brown, while level 7 is considered dark blonde. Hair at these levels that has been lightened or dyed may reveal underlying orange pigments due to the natural warmth present in darker hair. This is because when lifting color, red and orange pigments are the last to be removed, which is why they often show through when trying to achieve lighter shades.
Think of it like this: levels 1-4 (black to dark brown) primarily contain red pigments that must be lifted before revealing orange, and levels 8-10 (light blonde to platinum blonde) require almost all red and orange pigments to be removed. Therefore, the intermediate levels, 5-7, are where orange is most noticeable, often described as brassy or coppery. Achieving a desired cooler tone requires neutralizing these orange pigments using toners or color-correcting shampoos.
Why does hair turn orange when lightened?
Hair naturally contains underlying pigments, including red, orange, and yellow. When you lighten hair, you are essentially removing these pigments. Darker hair (levels 1-4) has more red pigment, which must be lifted through before you get to the orange and then yellow. The lighter you go, the more of these pigments need to be removed, and orange is often the stubborn middle ground.
Since orange pigments are more resistant to lightening than red pigments in darker hair, and easier to expose than yellow pigments when moving up from red-dominant shades, they often become visible during the lightening process. This is especially true if the hair isn’t lifted high enough to reach the desired level or if the lifting process is not performed correctly, resulting in an undesirable orange hue.
How can I remove orange tones from my hair?
Removing orange tones from hair involves using products that contain blue pigment, which is the opposite of orange on the color wheel. These products neutralize the orange, bringing the hair closer to a neutral or cool tone. Options include blue shampoos, toners, and hair dyes specifically formulated to counteract brassiness.
The strength and type of product needed will depend on the intensity of the orange and the current level of your hair. For mild orange tones, a blue shampoo used regularly may be sufficient. More stubborn or intense orange may require a toner or demi-permanent color with blue or violet undertones to effectively neutralize the warmth. Always follow product instructions carefully to avoid over-toning, which could result in an unwanted blue or green tinge.
What is the hair color level system and how does it relate to orange tones?
The hair color level system is a scale used to describe the darkness or lightness of hair, ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (platinum blonde). Each number represents a specific depth of color, and understanding this system is crucial for predicting and managing orange tones when coloring or lightening hair. The system is a universal way for colorists to communicate color goals and results.
As mentioned before, orange tones tend to appear most prominently between levels 5 and 7. This is because these levels are in the transitional range where the underlying orange pigments are being exposed but not fully lifted. By knowing your current hair level and your desired level, you can better anticipate and plan for how to neutralize or work with any orange that may appear during the coloring process.
Can I prevent my hair from turning orange when bleaching?
Yes, there are several steps you can take to prevent your hair from turning orange when bleaching. The most important is to ensure you are using a strong enough developer and bleach for your hair type and starting level. Undertreating the hair will leave underlying warmth exposed. Slow and gradual lightening with multiple sessions is generally safer and more effective than trying to achieve a significant level jump in one sitting.
Additionally, consider using a bleach additive designed to protect the hair and help control brassiness during the lifting process. Following up with a toner immediately after bleaching is essential for neutralizing any remaining orange tones and achieving your desired shade. It’s also crucial to maintain your hair’s health with moisturizing treatments and protein masks to prevent damage, which can exacerbate brassiness.
What is the difference between toner and hair dye for neutralizing orange tones?
Toner and hair dye both deposit pigment into the hair, but they differ in their strength and longevity. Toner is typically a demi-permanent color with low volume developer designed to neutralize unwanted tones, such as orange, and add shine. It does not lift the hair’s existing color and fades gradually over several weeks.
Hair dye, on the other hand, can be permanent, demi-permanent, or semi-permanent and can lift, deposit, or both, depending on the formula. While hair dye can also be used to neutralize orange tones, it generally provides more intense and longer-lasting results than toner. The choice between the two depends on the severity of the orange tones and the desired final color. A toner is usually sufficient for slight brassiness, while dye may be needed for more drastic color correction.
Are some hair types more prone to orange tones than others?
Yes, darker hair types (levels 1-4) are generally more prone to exhibiting orange tones when lightened because they contain a higher concentration of red and orange pigments. As these pigments are gradually removed during the lightening process, the orange undertones become more visible and prominent. This is a direct result of the pigment composition inherent to darker shades.
Coarse or resistant hair types may also be more prone to orange tones, as they can be more difficult to lift evenly. The hair may resist the lightening process, requiring multiple sessions and careful monitoring to prevent damage and ensure consistent removal of underlying pigments. Fine hair, while generally easier to lift, can also exhibit orange if not lightened properly due to its porous nature.